Archivi categoria: FASHION NOTES

A Tudor pattern for a contemporary Astrea

One of the most interesting aspects about the Métissages is that each juxtaposition reminds and follows a very peculiar path, starting from different investigations on adornment and identity , testifying the recurring of forms and their collisions.

The métissage I want you to “read”  hereby has its origin in the Elizabethan era: in this collection from Alexander McQueen designed by Sarah Burton, a “contemporary” girdle is embroidered and studded with pearls, recalling the splendour of Elizabethan portraits, enriched by a delicate lace ruffle, enhancing that typical Tudor crossed and studded pattern  which flourished during the reing of Astrea, the Virgin Queen.

The same studded intersection is the main ornamental motif of Raïssa Bump’s brooch, in which all the renaissance elements are concentrated in little small Tudor world: and the shape itself of the brooch, according to me, reminds to those velvety gowns, richly emboidered with pearls (cherished jewels for Queen Elizabeth, loved for their lunar light as they symbolized purity), both an armour and a medium of seduction, representing, a that time, the social status and  the identity of the wearer  and, nowadays, created for a new contemporary Astrea.

alexander-mcqueen-raissa-bump

Alexander McQueen (designer Sarah Burton), Two outfits from the Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection [source: Vogue Paris and Vogue.com via Pinterest]  and Raissa Bump,  faceted brooch, oxidized sterling silver, pyrite and silk thread, 2012 [source Sienna Patti Gallery via Pinterest]

Web lens:

Alexander McQueen catwalk on Vogue Paris

Alexander McQueen Collection catwalk on Vogue.com by MARK HOLGATE

Raïssa Bump via Sienna Patti

Raïssa Bump website

For Queen Elizabeth Tudor as Astrea see: Frances A. Yates, Astraea. The Imperial Theme in the Sixteenth Century, Routlege and Kegan Paul, London, 1975 (tr. it. Frances A. yates, Astrea. L’idea di Impero nel Cinquecento, Einaudi, Torino 1978).

a presto,

Nichka

 

 

 

 

WELCOME MAY! …and a handful of lilies of the valley

Happy Sunday, it’s Labour Day but I want to welcome May with a postcard from Parnassus…

…for you!

 All the  forms live through Space and Time: they flow along centuries and arts; they dwell in ideas and flourish in details.

DIOR - RYAN

CHRISTIAN DIOR, “Muguet” dress, white cotton organdie embroidered with lily-of-the-valley bellflowers, Haute Couture “Libre” Coll., Spring Summer 1957 (full image and detail- Source:Pinterest) –  JACQUELINE RYAN, “Sea brooch”, gold and enamel, 2008 [courtesy of The Scottish Gallery]

Web Lens:

A presto!

Nichka