Tag: CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY;

OF BROOCHES, MESSENGERS AND WORDS |spotted on THE NY TIMES

In her dissertation to obtain the degree of Doctor at Leiden University the Dutch Art Historian Marjan Unger wrote[1] : “The worlds of fashion and clothing and the worlds of jewellery are often seen as two different worlds, which barely touch each other and sometimes are even depicted as each other’s rivals. But is perhaps more useful to explore how they can be productively related to each other.”

Fashion and jewellery are both complex systems:  fashion is not so much about dresses as well as jewellery is nothing but pieces and ornament.  Both worlds connect different fields of studies and have interacted virtually and mutually over the years and finally something new is emerging: the “Brooch factor”.

Among jewels, brooches are my favourite pieces because they are true statement pieces par excellence.  They are small sculptures, little small worlds full of inventiveness and creativity. They condense the history of the artist: a microcosmos where the entire author emerges.

So, I am really grateful to Linda Dyett and The NY Times for quoting my words in a very interesting article about the return of the brooch, entirely dedicated to my piece par excellence: THE BROOCH IS BACK, BABY!

Colorful collar: an assortment of brooches and pins including Biba Schutz’s Cube and vintage Jewelry Library pieces.  Photo Credit: David Lewis Taylor via The NY Times
 

Fashion, which is always experimenting new materials and reinventing itself looking back and around, has finally understood that jewels are not a mere ornament and brooches, especially (but we cannot forget also necklaces and rings) a real form of art, able to express moods and to communicate feelings.

As for contemporary art, also contemporary jewellery displays itself with multiple languages using different materials and reinventing itself constantly so, I hope that there will be the possibility in the future to open this door with a collaboration between the fashion world and the one of contemporary jewellery, as the great Elsa Schiaparelli did with Man Ray, Dalì, Tristan Tzara and Picasso.

I am deeply grateful to Linda Dyett and to The NY TIMES for this opportunity.

BUONA LETTURA!

Nichka

[1] Marjan Unger, Jewelley in Context. A multidisplinary framework for the study of jewellery, with a foreword by Theo Smeets, pp.81-91, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2019.

UN ARCHIVIO TUTTO PER NOI |Conversazioni con Eliana Negroni

Il blog THE MORNING BARK  festeggia  nel 2021 il suo decimo anno di attività e sono contenta di poter condividere con tutti voi un nuovo progetto nato in collaborazione con Eliana Negroni e l’Archivio Negroni – Tools for Contemporary Craft.

La serie di incontri via web “Un Archivio tutto per noi” nasce da un’idea di Eliana Negroni, maker e curatrice del concorso per gioielleria contemporanea  e di ricerca GIOIELLI INFERMENTO, per la condivisione di idee, parole, pensieri, letture e libri preferiti  attraverso una serie di incontri/intervista via web.

Con Eliana abbiamo parlato di storie di preziosità, Preziosismo, di donne, di libri belli, di gioielli storici e contemporanei: qui di seguito i video (ma stiamo già lavorando ai prossimi incontri!) sia in italiano sia in Inglese.

In fondo alla pagina troverete la bibliografia, le sedi museali per fare un video tour e i link ai siti degli artisti menzionati.

BUONA VISONE!

Episodio 1 “L’ALLEGRO SVOLAZZO”

Episodio 2 “LE RELAZIONI PERICOLOSE”

Justus Sustermans, Ritratto di Maria Maddalena D’Austria, olio su tela, 1623, Firenze, Galleria degli Uffizi (Source: wikipedia)

***

THE MORNING BARK  celebrates its tenth year of activity in 2021 and I am happy to share with you all a new project born in collaboration with Eliana Negroni and the Archivio Negroni – Tools for Contemporary Craft.

The series of web meetings “An Archivio of our own” was born thanks to Eliana Negroni, maker and curator of the competition for contemporary jewellery GIOIELLI INFERMENTO, in order to share  ideas, words, thoughts, readings and favorite books through a series of meetings / interviews via web.

Together with Eliana we talked about stories of preciousness, Préciosité, of women, of beautiful books, of historical and contemporary jewels: here are the videos (but we are already working on the next meetings!)

At the bottom of the page you will find the book references, the  collection/institution list  just to take a tour and links to the sites of the artists mentioned.

STAY TUNED!

Episode 1 “THE BLUE ROOM of Madame de Rambouillet”

Episode 2 “THE DANGEROUS LIAISONS”

View of the Hôtel de Rambouillet and its gardens in Rue Saint-Thomas-du-Louvre (Source: Wikipedia)

BIBLIOGRAFIA/ BOOK REFERENCES

  • PIERO ALOISI, “Alcuni diamanti medicei”  in Bollettino d’arte del Ministero della pubblica istruzione : notizie dei musei, delle gallerie e dei monumenti d’Italia , Anno 25, ser. 3, n.8 (feb. 1932), p. 349-358;
  • HELEN W. DRUTT ENGLISH – PETER DORMER, Jewelry of our time. Art, ornament and obsession, 1995 New York, Rizzoli International Publication – ISBN 0-8478-1914-0;
  • CINDY STRAUSS (a cura di/ed.), Ornament as art. Avant-garde jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection, The Museum Of Fine Arts, Houston; 2007 Houston, The Fine Arts Museum and ARNOLDSCHE Art Publishers  – ISBN 978-3-89790-273-2;
  • MARIA SFRAMELI (a cura di), I gioielli dei Medici dal vero e in ritratto, catalogo della mostra , Firenze, Palazzo Pitti, Museo degli Argenti, 12 settembre 2003 – 2 Febbraio 2004; 2003 Livorno, Sillabe edizioni  – ISBN  88-8347-197-0;
  • BENEDETTA CRAVERI, Maria Antonietta e lo scandalo della collana; 2006 Milano, Adelphi, Biblioteca Minima – ISBN  978-88-459-2105-6;
  • BENEDETTA CRAVERI, La civiltà della conversazione, 2001 Milano, Adelphi – ISBN 9788845916175 (tr. English BENEDETTA CRAVERI, The age of conversation, 2005 The New York Review of Books – translator Teresa Waugh – ISBN 1590171411 (ISBN13: 9781590171417));
  • BENEDETTA CRAVERI, Amanti e Regine, 2005 Milano, Adelphi – ISBN 9788845919992;
  • BENEDETTA CRAVERI, Gli Ultimi Libertini, 2016 Milano Adelphi – ISBN 97-8884-5930-362 (tr. English BENEDETTA CRAVERI, The last libertines, 2020 The New York Review of Books –translator Aaron Kerner – ISBN-10 : 1681373408 – ISBN-13 : 978-1681373409);
  • ORIETTA ROSSI PINELLI, François Boucher, collana ART DOSSIER, 1999 Giunti Editore– ISBN 8809762282;
  • ORIETTA ROSSI PINELLI, Le Arti nel Settecento europeo, 2009 Torino, Einaudi – ISBN 8806197487;
  • PIERRE CHODERLOS DE LACLOS, Le Relazioni Pericolose, Mondadori – traduzione di Antonia Marza;
  • ELIANA NEGRONI (ed.), GIOIELLI IN FERMENTO, cataloghi della mostra per gli anni 2015, 2016.
  • ANGELIKA NOLLERT et al. (eds), Untitled, Thomas Gentille. American Jeweller, Arnoldsche Art Publishers – ISBN 978-3-89790-466-8;
  • MIRELLA CISOTTO NALON at al.(eds.), Pensieri Preziosi  11, Simbolo, Ruudt Peters e Evert Nijland. Voci della gioielleria contemporanea olandese, 2015.

ARTISTS’ LIST

GIJS BAKKER – http://www.gijsbakker.com/

PETER CHANG – https://emuseum.mfah.org/people/19572/peter-chang/objects

HIROKO SATO PIJANOWSKY – https://www.hirokosato-pijanowski.com/fullpage.html

 HIROKO SATO PIJANOWSKY https://emuseum.mfah.org/objects/57952/neckpiece?ctx=f539b12b79244f1201a727c54bed139be03e9523&idx=0

LUCY SARNEEL – https://hannahgallerybarcelona.net/artists/lucy-sarneel

NAAMA BERGMAN – https://www.naamabergman.com/

EVERT NIJLAND – http://www.evertnijland.com/

FEDERICA SALA – https://www.federicasala.org/

THOMAS GENTILLE – https://www.pinakothek.de/en/exhibitions/untitled-thomas-gentille-american-jeweler

MIKI ASAI –  https://www.mikiasai.com/

BETTINA SPECKNER – https://www.bettina-speckner.com/40983.html

ALEJANDRA SOLAR – http://www.alejandrasolar.com/

GEORGIA GREMOUTI – http://www.georgiagremouti.com/

LIANA PATTIHIS –  http://www.pattihis.com/

Sedi Museali/Collections/ Galleries and Musea

PALAZZO PITTI, Galleria Palatina, Firenze/Florence

ALTE PINAKOTHEK, Monaco di Baviera

VILLA EPHRUSSI DE ROTHSCHILD, Cap Ferrat

THE FRICK COLLECTION, New York

THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS HOUSTON, Houston, Texas (USA)

HELEN WILLIAM DRUTT COLLECTION OF CONTEMPORARY STUDIO JEWELLERY AT MFA HOUSTON