Archivi tag: Maison Valentino

DU DOMAINE D’OUTRENOIR | an education to the absolute

Few months ago, while drinking an apéro, a close friend suddenly asked me “why don’t you wear colours sometimes? You always wear black!”.  I answered her quietly “oh…c’mon! you know I wear white in summer!! Don’t you think this is enough for me?!”

 By the way, the fact is that, even if I really love colours such as red,  a well saturated yellow, blue, light blue, pale indigo or wild tangerine, I always return to black: not only because it has such a fascinating social history, but because wearing black is an education to the absolute. It’s a matter of “silence and slow time”, a constant growth of desire and the reward is a long, trustworthy endurance.

 Being considered for centuries the denial of all colours and the synonym of evil, during classical times black had a different status: the Romans distinguished between  ATER, an opaque black and its brighter shade called NIGER, thus it was a matter of reflection and, of course, light(ness) indeed!

 So, I’ve started thinkin’ to a new métissage, combining the légéresse of black and its strong presence, matching a somber, but tumultuous lightness. Because you know how ligntness can be overflowing!


 KARIN JOHANSSON, brooches from the Butterfly series – oxidized silver, 2010  and  MAISON VALENTINO, haute couture spring coll. 2014.

Moreover, talking about black, I have to introduce you one of the greatest artist of our times, the one who devoted to black  almost his entire artistic life: PIERRE SOULAGES (Rodez, France 1919).

1963 soulages

  PIERRE SOULAGES, Tableau 19 juin 1963, Paris- Musée de l’Art Moderne

From the early ’80s Soulages started painting in total black, giving to the colour an unforeseen clarity: that was the domain of “outrenoir” (beyondblack).



L’outrenoir provient d’un développement. Je peignais une nuit et je continuais à travailler malgré mon désespoir de ne pas trouver ce que je cherchais. Quelque chose de plus fort en moi que l’intention que j’avais. Je suis allé dormir. Après une ou deux heures, je me suis levé et je suis retourné voir ce que j’avais fait. Alors je me suis aperçu que la matière que j’utilisais, ce n’était plus du noir. Ce n’était pas le noir. La matière que j’utilisais, c’était la lumière. La lumière, elle réfléchit le noir. Ma peinture, ce n’est pas ce qu’on croit voir: c’est la lumière. Si on voit ça noir, c’est qu’on a le ventre à la tête. Si on regarde avec les yeux, on s’aperçoit que ce n’est pas noir.” (Michael de Saintcheron interviewing Pierre Soulages, via HuffingtonPost France)

“The outrenoir comes up from a development. I painted one night and I continued to work despite my despair of not finding what I was looking for. There was something stronger in me than I had intended. I went to sleep. After one or two hours, I got up and went back to see what I had done. Then I realized that the material I used was no longer black. It was not black. The material I used was light. Light, it reflects the dark. My painting, it is not what one believes to see: it is light. If you see that black is that we have the stomach to the head. If you look with your eyes, you realize that it’s not black” (Michael de Saintcheron interviewing Pierre Soulages, via HuffingtonPost France).


BLACK, HISTORY OF A COLOUR by Michel Pastoureau


View the complete bibliography on Pierre Soulages via here:

Karin johansson, red papillon broche

Karin Johansson, red papillon brooch

 A presto,



THE BLUE WAVE | Métissages for a blue monday

Some time ago I started matching contemporary jewellery with old and new fashion creations in order to create an innovative dialogue between two meanings of expression always considered as “young sisters” of the great arts as painting and sculpture. The fact is that fashion, as inevitably is, always looked to painting as the main source of inspiration: many were, during past times, the coutuoriers who took inspiration directly from arts: Ysl with his magnificent Mondriaan collection, or, nowadays, Maison Valentino with its richly embroidered gown with a scene directly taken from Lucas Cranach the Elder.


Thus the evidence of dialogue between this and that: not only to demonstrate that ideas fly, but  also to show how possible is to gain the same artistic intention with two different media.

So…it’s monday and  you know, mondayblues is terrific!!! so, again, let’s play with arts!


1395611677411 (1)

MAISON VALENTINO, Haute Couture AW 2013/14 –   CAMILLA TEGLIO, Necklace: a voyage to Delft  until the great East….and back.


1399670203113DANIELA GREGIS, Blue painted dress  and  PATRICIA CORREIA DOMINGUES, Brooch, 2013:

1408826660704BIN DIXON-WARD, Blue 3D printed ring  and    MADAME PERIPETIE, DreamSequence.

 A presto,